This past weekend my wife and I continued a July 4th tradition of celebrating America by getting out and experiencing some of what we love most about it. After six months of training more seriously for any mountaineering objective than we ever had before, we joined a group of friends on a climb of Tahoma (a.k.a. Mount Rainier) via the Emmons-Winthrop route. With a total elevation gain of over 10,000 feet and round trip mileage of just over 18 miles, the Emmons Route offered a technical challenge in addition to a physical one.
On the first day of our climb we started out at the White River Campground (4400 feet), gradually making our way over 3.5 miles through a beautiful forest to Glacier Basin (5935 feet). With the first bit of excited nervousness out of our system, we continued through alpine meadows to where the snow finally started at the base of the Inter Glacier (7000 feet). Recent reports indicated that there were no open crevasses and as such we, like many other teams, opted to not rope up and ascended through surprisingly firm snow to Camp Curtis (9000 feet). From there we rested before transitioning to taking on the crux of Day 1, a rocky descent to the Emmons Glacier, where we roped up for the first time and traveled past a couple open crevasses to where we would stay at Camp Schurman (9500 feet).
Our basecamp had us pitch our tents amongst many other climbing parties, but the main attraction was the massive summit behind us and the large rock edifices and crevasses all around us. Even as we were setting up camp and going about our business, it was impossible to not constantly stop and stare, especially when one of the frequent rock or ice falls happened in the distance. As we made dinner and melted water, two rangers came by and chatted with us about our plans, gave some beta on the recent route conditions, and asked us if we had any questions. With the recent staffing cuts across the National Park Service and the even more recent anger around Republican attempts to sell off national lands to the highest bidder, we took the opportunity to thank the rangers for their stewardship of and advocacy for those sacred spaces.
After getting to bed later than we had hoped, we awoke with two whole hours of sleep under our belts to start our summit bid. As we started up the route at 11 pm on July 4th, we spotted the tail end of a fireworks display far in the distance. As we made our way up through what felt like a million switchbacks on "The Corrider", we caught glimpses of crevasses and hulking snow and ice features as our headlamps swept across them in the dark. Around 12,000 feet we started encountering more heavily crevassed terrain that took some evaluation and navigation. As the sun rose and daylight broke, half of our team of six turned back as they weren't feeling well. The remaining three of us pushed on, heading towards the saddle between Liberty Ridge and Columbia Crest.
The final 500 feet of the climb entered the realm of pure mental challenge. We were sleep deprived, physically exhausted, and each retreating into our own mind palaces to keep going. Finally, the summit at 14,441 feet was in sight. As we arrived we laughed, hugged, and congratulated each other as we signed the summit register. We took some summit selfies, consumed some calories, and made a long, tired descent down softening snow back to basecamp.
Back at camp we reconnected with the other half of our climbing party. We swapped stories about our respective days as we relaxed, made dinner, and enjoyed the camaraderie that shared experiences in the outdoors brings. The next morning we enjoyed "sleeping in" until 5 am and began our descent back to the cars. On the way back our trip down Inter Glacier was much faster, as we were treated to 2,000 feet of glissading before transitioning off the snow and making our way back through the forest to the parking lot.
